Norsemen of Texas

Motorcyclists can rightly be called adventurers; like early settlers, we mount our trusty – if we’ve been doing proper maintenance – steeds with a desire to explore. It might be that we do it to escape the mundane, to take a mental health break, or just because we must. Perhaps, it’s more than just desire and we’re driven to ride; we actually need to escape, find new and different surroundings, even if just for a while.

By Kendal Larson

That need was exactly the feeling I had as I climbed aboard my motorcycle, departed Sugar Land, and headed northwest for Clifton in Bosque (pronounced “bos-kee”) County.

Often, riding throughout Texas, we find ourselves in areas settled by people of one distinctive ethnic origin: Fredericksburg has its German heritage; in West, Texas, it’s Czechs; South Texas has strong Mexican roots; and there are countless other communities with deep ties to far away lands. Drifting into the area northwest of Waco, near Clifton, it’s clear this is Norwegian country. The names of businesses and organizations, the signs on ranch gates, and the names on the tombstones in cemeteries – Lundgren, Anderson, Finstad, Peerson, Knudson, Gustafson – confirm this.

That’s what has driven me here. I’m on the road to see why my fellow Norsemen chose this pocket of Texas to call home and to see what other surprises the area might bring.

There was a bit of a drought in eastern sections of Norway in the mid-1800s. Around that same time, Norwegians were coming to America in large numbers. Many found their way north to Michigan, Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota and North Dakota. But there were some who followed a southern path that took them from Norway to Texas via New Orleans. This was largely due to the influence of Cleng Peerson, often referred to as the “Father of Norwegian Immigration to America.” Cleng felt the region looked a great deal like eastern Norway, and this, combined with the state of Texas’ offer of 320 acres per immigrant, was a strong motivator for Norse settlers. In the triangle formed by present-day Cranfills Gap, Norse, and Clifton, these hearty souls found easy access to plentiful water, abundant wildlife, and fertile land.

Cleng’s influence was felt throughout America, as he established many Norwegian settlements in this country. But his move to Texas, at the ripe old age of 67, proved to be his final move, and he passed away in 1865. He was so well-respected that King Olav V of Norway visited Cleng’s gravesite at Our Saviors Lutheran Church in Norse, TX, in 1982 to lay a wreath commemorating the 200th anniversary of Peerson’s birth.

Early Norse settlers discovered dangerous times in Texas, as evidenced by the story of an infamous day in March of 1867 when Ole Nystel was captured on Kay Mountain by Comanche Indians. He was only 14 at the time, and it may have been due to his youth that the Indians thought him impressionable enough that they decided to try to make him one of their own. Their efforts to socialize him to their way of life were unsuccessful, and during the three months he was held captive, Ole resisted. His lack of compliance did not please his captors, which meant Ole regularly faced bodily harm and even death. He was eventually released for ransom at a trading post in Kansas Territory later that same year.

Today’s motorcycling explorers will discover a surprising treasure in Clifton at the Bosque Museum. Not only does it house excellent historical artifacts, records, and photographs related to Norse settlers to the area, but it also includes a fascinating section about Bosque County’s Norse contributions and service to this country during World War II.

But, there’s something else that is a real shocker to archaeology buffs. The Horn Shelter exhibition is a thing of beauty, and the site it represents – predating the Norse settlers – is considered one of the three most important anthropological sites in North America.

The Horn Shelter site was discovered and excavated by amateur archaeologists Albert Redder and Frank Watt on the banks of the Bosque River. Their work revealed a burial site dating back 11,200 calendar years and the remains of what is the first known inhabitant of Bosque County. The display in the museum is a reconstruction of the burial ceremony, and when you first enter the museum you’re greeted by a bronze bust, which is a facial reconstruction of the man buried there. It was sculpted by noted forensic sculptor Amanda Dunning with consultation by Smithsonian physical anthropologist Dr. Douglas Owsley.

Especially interesting is that the man is likely neither European nor Native American, but there seems to be DNA and skeletal links tying him to a group of indigenous people known as the Ainu or Aino, which currently inhabit the Sakhalin and Kuril Islands north of Japan. The University of Texas’ website Texas Beyond History (texasbeyondhistory.net) has an excellent section that goes into full detail about this site and the people who once inhabited the region.

It should by now be apparent that a visit to the Bosque Museum is a must when visiting Clifton; with its other exhibits, it chronicles the settlement of Bosque County from immemorial times through the end of the 19th century.

Another interesting thing about Clifton is the Clifton Whipple Truss bridge, near the city park on the north side of town. Built in 1884, it spans 150 feet across the Bosque River. This is one of the last of its kind in the state, and served the region well from 1884 until 1941, when the new bridge was built on Texas Highway 6. If you have a moment, stop on the bridge and feel its pulsing movements as other bikes roll across. It’s a sensation not easily forgotten.

Leaving Clifton to the north on Farm-to-Market Road 1991, the ride to Meridian is mellow and beautiful. It has a few nice turns to keep you engaged, but it’s really one of those rides during which you can let your mind wander and your eyes take in the beauty around you.

The early settlers chose this region in part because it reminded them of the rolling hills of their native Norway. Rural and agricultural, the area’s many well-maintained farms and ranches are proof of the early settlers’ success making this land their home. Though the road itself is in good condition, as with all roads in this area, it’s wise to keep a sharp eye out for both fast moving wildlife and slow moving farm equipment.

The city of Meridian is also the county seat, which means, in classic Texas style, it has a grand courthouse situated in the middle of the town square. It is also home to the annual National Championship Barbecue Cook-Off, which is always held on the 4th Saturday of October. In 2013, the cook-off saw 171 cooking teams lovingly attending their grills and smokers to vie for over $20,000 in prize money. This year promises to be just as big. The cook-off competition itself is an invitation-only event for paricipants who have won or placed in regional events; the public is invited to attend, and gate admission is only $6. The event’s website (bbq.htcomp.net) provides a form to volunteer to become a judge, which means your opinion could help decide who is this year’s People’s Choice winner.

Not far from Meridian, you’ll find one of Texas Parks and Wildlife’s best kept secrets. Meridian State Park is slightly larger than 500 acres, and its hilly terrain lives up to Meridian’s nickname of “Top of the Hill Country.” The 72-acre lake in the park is a favorite among area anglers and has given up a 12-pound bass, which is heavier than nearby Lake Whitney’s largest. You’ll find both primitive and screened shelters and, if you’d like in on a little secret, TripAdvisor has input on which campsites are the best. If you’re one of many motorcycling birders, you’ll find that the park is home to the endangered golden-cheeked warbler, which you might be able to see from March through July.

Texas Highway 22, which leads southwest out of Meridian, is a broad-shouldered smoothy that will give you a break before becoming challenging later. It’s primarily straight, and because of that, it will give you lots of time to watch for the various antelope and other exotic game that you can see on many high-fenced ranches along the way.

Well, now, we’ve managed to arrive at a biker’s utopia, at least in terms of finding cold refreshment and mighty fine eatin’. Just off  FM 219 on the north side of town, the Horney Toad Bar & Grill – which in some ways is rather like an oasis in a desert – is on the right. The number of  “dry” counties in the area makes the Horny Toad a mecca for riders wishing to slake their thirst with a nicely chilled adult beverage. But, don’t just stop for a beer. You’ll find the burgers in this place to be top-notch, and there are travelers who make a point of diverting to Cranfills Gap just to nosh on one of these beauties. It’s likely that the moose adorning the bar has a great disposition due to the rose-colored glasses it wears; or perhaps, it’s just the great atmosphere that makes it seem so. Regardless, the Horney Toad is a welcome sight to hungry and thirsty riders.

Another historical attraction – just four miles outside of Cranfills Gap on FM 4145 – is St. Olaf’s Kirke, also known as the Old Rock Church. The road is one of those “slightly off the beaten trail” kind of rides, but the beautiful rock church is worth the detour. Built in 1886, it satisfied the need for the growing numbers of Norwegian settlers in the area, who previously had been attending Our Savior’s Lutheran Church in the town of Norse. This beautiful example of stone architecture is still used by Bosque County residents for special occasions. If you feel the Viking spirit, you might just continue on FM 4145 towards Clifton. You’ll find a number of sharp, 90-degree turns combined with meandering corners on a road that’s generally in decent shape. It will eventually merge into FM 4150, which in turn ends at FM 219; it’s a run that’s well worth the saddle time spent.

Today’s trip to Bosque County is far less daunting than that faced by Norse immigrants, but do be prepared for a feisty ride from Cranfills Gap to Clifton. Heading northeast out of Cranfills Gap on TX 22, you’ll pass the Zur Autobahn restaurant; make sure you aren’t in such a hurry that you don’t give Zur Autobahn a try. They do keep tight hours, so heed their advice and call ahead for a reservation. You’ll find the standard German fare there, including schnitzels, done to regional perfection. FM 2136 has a wonderful mix of rolling hills, sweeping curves, and great scenery. You’re certain to enjoy the elevation changes and, though the road is short, it’s engaging and will keep you busy. It ends just west of Clifton, and, if you’re like me, you’ll appreciate that the Best Western there is known as the Velkommen – “Welcome” in Scandinavian tongue.

There’s little doubt that this old Norwegian found something very special in this part of Texas, and that, chances are, you will too.

Enjoy the road.

Norseland

Eat, Stay, Do

CLIFTON

Chamber of Commerce

115 N Ave D
(254) 675-3720
www.cliftontexas.org

Bella Veta Italian Bistro

1438 W 9th St
(254) 675-1909
Open Tue-Sun,
11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Italian favorites

Mitchell’s Grill

215 W 3rd St
(254) 675-8888
Open Thur, Fri & Sat  Upscale dining; reservations recommended

Somethin’s Brewing

102 N Ave D
(254) 675-7798
Open Tue-Sat, 7 a.m.-5 p.m.  
Signature paninis & club sandwiches

Sulak’s Czech Bakery & Meat Market

710 N Ave G
(254) 675-2825
Fresh kolaches, jerkeys, & other specialties

Best Western Velkommen Inn

1215 N Avenue G
(800) 568-8520

Bosque Museum

301 S Avenue Q (254) 675-3845
www.bosquemuseum.org 
Open Tue-Sat, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Clifton Farmers’ Market

Legacy Park just off FM 219 
Open every Saturday from 8 a.m.-12 p.m.

Observatory – Turner Research Station of the Central Texas Astronomical Society

14801 FM 182
9 p.m.-11 p.m.
Free; donations accepted

CRANFILLS GAP 

The Horny Toad Bar & Grill

319 3rd St
(254) 597-1100
www.HornyToadBar.com

St. Olaf Kirke

(St. Olaf’s Lutheran Church)

4 mi E of Cranfills Gap on County Road 4145 • Historic church

MERIDIAN 

Chamber of Commerce

107 Erath St
(254) 435-2966
www.meridian-chamber.com

Zapata Mexican Restaurant

514 W Morgan St
(254) 435-9977  

Zur Autobahn German Resturant

10668 TX 22
(254) 597-2500 www.zurautobahn.com
Reservations recommended

Meridian State Park

TX Park Rd 7
(254) 435-2536
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/meridian

National Championship Barbecue Cookoff

Bosque Bottoms
(254) 435-6113
bbq.htcomp.net 
4th Sat in Oct